Sunday, August 14, 2011

The French Laundry

I know I haven't been posting...no..I didn't fall off the face of this earth..but that gmat studying definitely takes all my time away.

French Laundry Friday night reservation are know to be impossible to get....Challenged Accepted! After about 1000+ times of calling, I finally got it. No big deal.

Thomas Keller's French Laundry is known to be one of the best restaurants in the US and the world, due to it's food and the ability for one to make a reservation.



The Rustic look outside the French Laundry is definitely fascinating. Honestly, you can simply missed it as another house if you didn't know better. No one would've guessed that it has with one of the finest food in the world.



One can't come to the French Laundry and not check out their garden. A good portion of the kitchen's vegetable are farmed here. Well, you've got to appreciate the saying in ratatouille, "if you want the best vegetable, you either bribe the farmers or grow your own"



Gougere: Pate-a-choux pastry filled with sauce mornay and gruyere cheese


The infamous amuse bouche at French Laundry. The soft, slightly salted bread puffs filled with a mild cheese definitely provides a nice stimulus to your appetite.



Cornet: Scottish Salmon Tartare with red onion creme - fraiche and black sesame tuile

Another infamous amuse bouche. The salmon tartar provides a mild sweetness combined with a nice crunch from the cone. The black sesame tuile provides a nice little nutty flavor to the finish.



1a) "Oysters and Pearls" - "Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar

Another signature stable of the French Laundry. This dish has been around for more than 15+ years and it's still the same formula (Caviar with Oysters). This exceptional dish draws in the mildly salty and brine of the caviar with the light brine from the oysters. Admiralty, the custard helps bringing the dish together to highlight both ingredients. Definitely a fitting start.



1b) "Hangtown Fry" Jidori Hen Egg Omelette, Bayonne Ham, Fried Oysters and Royal Ossetra Caviar

This exceptionally Omelette is a substitution of the oysters and caviar dish.The omelette is done to a perfection of smooth and a tiny bit of creamy texture. With the addition of the Ham which provides a nice sweetness to the omelette while the caviar provides the mild saltiness. The fried oysters was fried to a perfection as well, a little crunch to the skin of the fried oyster adds a different dimension to this dish.




2a) Jacobsen's Farm Apple Salad - Baby Beets, Red Walnuts and Dijon Mustard

The apple caviar provides a nice sweet crunch of the apple, while the fresh baby beets provides a nice little beet flavor just to "beet" you up a bit.




2b) Moulard Duck "Foie Gras Mille - Crepe" - Sea Urchin, Pickled Cherries, Sorrel and Black Truffle Coulis

Foie Gras and Uni..hm...this is the first time I've ever had this combo and, frankly, it works extraordinary well. The fresh Uni brings in a subtle brine while the foie brings in the nice smooth buttery, and a little bit of chocolate flavor. While the truffle coulis brings the earthiness to the foie, the cherries provides a nice sweetness to the foie. It's definitely a haunting dish as the ingredients combined so nicely together.



We were provided with a nice dinner roll from Bouchon.



3a) Sashimi of Geoduck Clam - Heart of Palm, Fennel Bulb, Tarragon and Orange - Espelette "Gelee"

The Geoduck is provides a nice chew, combined with the  mildy sweet orange flavor creates a well balanced dish. Although, I had the luck of biting into a blob of fennel and paralyzed my taste bud for a second, it's still a great dish.



3b) Sauteed Fillet of Atlantic Cod - Summer Squash Artichokes, Toybox Tomatoes, Arugula and Spanish Saffron

This piece of fish is probably the best I've had this year. This perfectly cooked fished has a nice crunchy skin while the center is cooked to a nice medium rare with a little of translucent. Though seasoned, the flavor of the fish is greatly drawn out and combined really well with the light saffron. The natural sweetness of the tomato has also added a nice finish to this course.



4) Sweet Butter-Poached Maine Lobster Tail - Black Mission Fig, Piedmont Hazelnuts, Scallion Salad and Coffee-Chocolate Emulsion

This poached lobster tail is probably the best of its finest. Its natural sweetness combined with its nice meaty texture gives you a really great bite to it. I actually thought the chocolate would take away the lobster's sweetness, not the case here as the chocolate is mildly sweet. The caramelized figs added in a nice touch to this dish as it's mild sweetness combines really well with the chocolate.



5a) Devil's Gulch Ranch Rabbit Sirloin - Medjool Dates, nantes Carrots, Marcona Almonds, Cilantro Shoots and Madras Curry

This nice rabbit was quite tender, and especially the rib, is rather flavorful. It also combines well with the sweetness of the dates. Though I thought the sirloin was a little drier for a rabbit , however, it's still an amazing dish.



5b) "Ris De Veau" - Pine Nut "Risotto", Spigarello, Radish and Picholine Olives

This tender piece of sweetbread is cooked to a perfect tender, it's got this nice soft texture but firmness as you bite into it while simultaneously drawing out a nice beefy flavor. The most amazing part about this dish though, is the Pine Nut "Risotto"; it's cooked to a near perfection and gives off a nice crunch in the end.



6) Snake River Farms "Calotte De Boeuf Grillee" - Bone Marrow Pudding, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Marble Potatoes, Tokyo Turnips and "Mignonette Bordelaise"

This kobe-style beef is cooked to a near perfection. It's tenderness and juiciness captivate your very attention. The Mushroom, potatoes and especially the turnip provides a very great complementary to this dish. The turnip is especially sweet, which wraps up this course very nicely.



7) "Fourme D'Ambert" - Baby Corn, Jingle Bell Peppers, Romaine Lettuce and Hobbs' Bacon Vinaigrette

The blue cheese here is definitely the star of this dish. I appreciates the addition of lettuce and the bacon vinaigrette, which is a little sweet to balance to cheese. Though I'm not a blue cheese fan, I can still appreciate the creativity and the balance of flavor used in this dish.



8) Yellow Watermelon Sorbet - Basil - Honey and Saba Vinegar

The mildly sweet sorbet is served with a little melon caviar to create a mild and refreshing sweetness. The vinegar combined with watermelon also bring forth a mildly sweetness of the watermelon from a different angle. The basil puree, although faint, also helps to showcase this pallet cleanser.



9a) "Peach Melba" - Sicilian Pistachio "Pain de Genes," Andandte Diary Yogurt, "Biscotti" and Raspberry Sorbet

The peach Melba here highlights the creativity of the FL. The peach is slight sweet compare to the yogurt, which complemented well by the pistachio. The strawberry sorbet acts as a nice pellet cleanser after each bite of the yogurt.



9b) Caramelia Chocolate "cremeux" - Gros Michel Banana, Georgia Peanuts, "Dentelle" and Salted Popcorn Ice Cream

The chocolate is silky smooth while mildly sweet, the caramel helps to create that little crunch, combined with a nice salted popcorn ice cream. This creates a perfect end to the night.



"Coffee & Doughnut" & Chocolate Macadamia nut

These little donuts are perfectly crisp and soft, giving off a nice little sponginess and mild sweetness. The coffee is actually more of an moose/ice cream texture than an actual liquid coffee. The chocolate macadamia is also a nice little gifts which I had no problem finishing.


A little departing gift from the restaurant

Overall, this is what I expected from French Laundry and I totally understand why most people consider a dinner here magical. Every dish is creative, yet, a lot of restrain, which I appreciate alot. All the dishes really highlights its main ingredients and definitely make eating here a true world class experience. I'll be looking forward in my many next meals here, as I know this will not be my last.






Saturday, March 5, 2011

Anqi

One of the best culinary secret has been revealed in the OC!


Being an OC resident, I've always been sadden by the fact that food can be a little boring. Well, Anqi, the Asian influenced restaurant resides at the South Coast plaza, has been rated as one of the top 10 molecular gastronomy restaurant by Gayot. That must mean....yes, I've got to try it. 


Prior to the dinner, I chatted with Chef Ryan Carson about his culinary journey and, surprisingly, all molecular technique he's done are self taught. The meal he has prepared for us all comes from his reading and trials!!!

One thing about this molecular meal is that the normal menu does not feature it. You can only experience it if you have a private dinner here. And now you wonder why it's so secretive.

Champagne & Caviar ~ nicolas fuiellete champagne gelee, american sturgeon caviar, white chocolate fizzy

The caviar provides a salty flavor to the whole dish while the gelee gives it a nice, jello texture. The white chocolate is the fun part since it gives off a nice little fizzy to the whole experience. Definitely a great start for the night.


Anqi Beet ~ sweet & sour salt

The thought of eating Beet is usually a nightmare for most people. However, this Beet would definitely change your mind. The beet provides a chip-like texture and crumbles once you starts eating it. Along with the sweet & sour salt, this fun bite provides a nice combo of sweet, sour and saltiness. 


Throughout the night, Chef Carson would come out and explains his courses.





Kumomoto Oyster ~ soy mignonette, yuzu lemonade 'cloud', citrus pop rocks


The oyster provides a simple brine flavor, along with soy mignonette which adds in a subtle sweetness. My favorite part of this dish is definitely the pop rocks. 







Hiramassa Crudo ~ avocado silk, sweet & sour tangerine veil, jalapeno - cucumber emulsion, frozen beet


The fish here is fresh, light, and provides a mild briny flavor. The tangerine gelatin, pairing it with the fish, provides a mild sweetness, which I enjoy. I personally think the avocado is not quite necessary in this dish, it just doesn't fit in. However, the beet sorbet here is awesome. It's a bit mild and, while giving off a nice consistent beet flavor, is not too overwhelming, which is great because it doesn't "beet" you up.





Lobster Summer Roll ~ compressed mango, vietnamese herbs, elderflower gelee, pickled rose petals


We were instructed to pour hot water into the rose petal, below the plate, which gives off a nice, sweet, rosy aroma to enhance our experience on this dish. The dish, initially, is what it seems, a Vietnamese spring roll. However, with the addition of the chili dipping sauce, which provides a nice tangy flavor, makes the spring roll more enjoyable overall, but I do miss the lobster a bit in this dish.  




Ahi Tuna Nicoise ~ White anchovy romesco, crispy haricot vert, 64 C quail egg, olive 'gushers'


By simply looking at the picture, you would think the star is the tuna....Well it is, but I honestly think the garnish are the brighter stars. The olives literally "pop" in your mouth, bursting a huge amount of olive juice when you eat it. The tomato is made in such a way that it gives off a consistent smoky flavor (smoky tomato), while it retains its tomato juice. The potato chip, cooked in duck fat, provides a full flavor of savoriness and saltiness. The tuna, despite thoroughly cooked, still captivate its juice and provide a great texture. The romesco sauce also helps enhance the flavor of the fish with a tiny bit of nutty flavor. 











"Looks Like Tartare" ~ compressed watermelon, mango 'egg yolk', dehydrated capers

A nice intermission from all the saltiness with a mildly sweet and refreshing course. The watermelon and mango gives off their milder version of their natural sweetness, which complimented really well by the capers and mint. This dessert-like dish definitely give my palate a good break in preparation for future courses.

Kurabota Pork Belly ~ Kimchi consomme, freeze dried banana, wasabi, peanut butter powder, yuzu-truffle

This dish is actually a variation of the salt & pepper pork belly. The pork belly is a bit more firm compared to its braised counterpart, which brings in a different textural enlightenment to my palate when eating with the dried banana since it gives off a nice contrast. The kimchi brothe is surprisingly light and doesn't "stink" as much as what you expect it to be while keeping its flavor. The side peanut butter powder is a nice addition to the plate, since i'm a peanut flavor fan. However, the dish can do just fine without it.

Foie Gras Torchon ~ cherry-yuzu gel, instant ginger - pineapple brioche, bacon dust, chinese celery

My first thing comes into my mind of the brioche are those youtube videos with M.Voltaggio, and yes, it's made with similar technique. It's fluffy, mildly sweet with pineapple flavor. The foie gras is quite the star as it's creamy, yet not overwhelmingly salty. With the addition of the sweet cherry-yuzu, the foie provides a consistent balance of sweet and salty, of course with the help of some bacon dust. The combination of all the ingredients here make this dish a really nice bite.

Misoyaki Black Codburikake risotto cake, pickled garden vegetables, encapsulated foie gras miso soup

This black Cod is something else. It's usually not my first choice of fish but I don't regret eating this. This nicely cooked black cod comes with a firm, yet flaky texture. The fish captures a mild sweetness similar to a very mild bbq sauce. And when you think the highness of the dish is done with the fish, the risotto cake comes in. Unlike a spongy rice ball, the risotto allows you to taste every grain of rice in the cake. When consumed with the foie gras soup, which is from the previous dish, it takes the flavor of the rice cake to another level. Bravo Chef Carson, you've just taken a common dish and turn it into a treasure piece.    

Intermezzo ~ concord grape sorbet, thyme jelly, lemon foam

A nice palate cleanser with excellent grape flavor. I like the citrus flavor from the lemon foam. It's definitely a needed break from the previous dishes

Jidori Chicken Roulade ~ Himalayan black truffles, oyster mushrooms, ginger, chinese mustard jus, hazelnut brittle

This sou vide chicken comes on as tender, juicy and packed with flavor. The mushroom and hazelnut garnish are delightful to have and the mustard curry, which brings in a mild mustard/curry flavor, pairs really well with the chicken. To my surprise, this dish is actually light compared to what I thought it can be.


Filet Mignon Confit ~ burnt carrot, shitake mushroom demi glaze, savoy cabbage, wasabi tater tots

The filet is actually a bit more firm and less salty than I want it to be. However, it allows the mushroom sauces to take over and allows the mushroom flavor to shine. The tater tots is definitely a great addition to this dish. It has this mild wasabi flavor and a nice crispy texture to go along with it. It's definitely one of the best garnish of the night. I actually scored a few more when others can't eat it (can I say "steal of the night"?)

Heirloom Melon Gazpacho ~ compressed heirloom melons, orange soup, yuzu salted mango sherbert

Out with the savory, in with the sweet. This light and refreshing melon soup paves way for that. Along with the mango sherbert, this dish refreshes my palate and allow me to be ready for more sweets. 

Elderflower Parfait ~ pink rose meringue, flowering thyme gel, pomegranate caviar, jasmine frozen yogurt

The best word to describe this dessert is probably "flowery". Every part of this, you taste flower. From the gel, to the caviar, to the yogurt,and to the parfait. Everything here is mildly sweet but packed with floral essence. I actually thought I was a bee sucking the sweetness of the flower, but instead of honey, i'm getting the floral flavor. I could eat this again, and again and I won't feel guilty.

"Not Your Average" Carrot Cake ~ raisin coulis, curry creme anglaise, saffron meringue, cream cheese ice cream

I am not a carrot cake fan but I have to say, this dish is pretty awe....(wait for it)....some. The cake is mildly sweet, with a hint of cinnamon. The curry creme is a great addition to the cake, and I can control how much I wanted to add. The most interesting part is definitely the cream cheese ice cream. Yes, it tastes just like cream cheese, which dazzle me because, why would anyone do that? But it works when you add everything back together and create that perfect carrot cake bite. 


Chocolate Twist ~ hazelnut praline, star anise - orange gel, popcorn ice cream


The smooth chocolate twist is mildly sweet and silky smooth. Combined with a a few nice brioche, it definitely becomes more apparent. The popcorn ice cream is definitely a nice addition as I love the fact that it tastes like popcorn...and I'm not eating popcorn!




Overall, Anqi has gone above and beyond my expectation. I appreciate the fact that both Chef Carson and Chef Rossi has combined science and culinary skills to create dishes that balance both texture and flavor. This meal is just "molecular" enough but not totally weird and the food is still food, which I appreciate most. Thanks to both chef, I definitely will look forward to my next meal from them.


 

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Café Pinot

Upon hearing Chef Kevin Meehan taking helm at Café Pinot, I was drawn to try this place. To my surprise, the night I visited is when Chef Meehan went out of town and Sou-Chef Brandon Dorsey took helm. Since I'm there and I was feeling a bit adventurous that night, I just thought "what the heck" and went along with it. And to my WTH, I was not disappointed, and the following is why.













1a) Tuna Tartar/Smashed Avocado/Tomato Mousse

The fresh tuna tartar is light and refreshing, combined with the smashed avocado and fresh tomato mousse purée creates a mildly sweet flavor to the starter. 


1b) Lemon Dungeness Crab Salad/Grapefruit/Pepper Espuma

This crab salad draws in the natural flavor of the Dungeness crab and carries a tiny bit of saltiness with it. The grapefruit brings in a mildly sweet flavor, sort of a palate cleansing piece. The Espuma is nice, but perhaps my palate is working too hard on the dungeness crab, it completely overpowers the Espuma. Nevertheless, it's nice to have it there.  


2) Scallop "en Papillote"/Fennel/Mushroom/Artichoke

I call this "the mystery bag" since it came out literally a sealed bag. This bag of goodies, once opened, pops out a few nicely cooked scallop. Although cooked inside a sealed bag, these scallops are perfectly cooked. They are juicy and flavorful, while keep scallop's natural texture. The broth/juice is cooked with three different kinds of mushrooms: shitaki, button and oyster mushroom. It's clean, yet, rich in flavor. The complexity, yet,  simple ingredient of this dish surprises me the most. This definitely is one of my top dish of the night.


Ah...Look at the black Truffles.....



3) Arborio Rice/Black Truffle/Parmesano Reggiano

To my surprise, instead of the infamous Mushroom Risotto served at Cafe Pinot, I was offered a different version of the risotto, and it did not disappoint. The silky smooth and creamy risotto show case the strength of Chef Dorsey' skill. The black truffle added brings in a nice earthly flavor to this elegant dish. 


4) Beef Bourguignon/Smoked Fingerling Potatoes/Winter Vegetables/Rosemary Essence

According to Chef Dorsey, this is a Thomas Keller's inspired dish. The juicy steak here is very tender and carries a very nice "mama's cooking" flavor to it. The juice marinated through the potatoes and other vegetables, making this dish a "whole" dish. The potato was thoroughly cooked while the vegetable provided a nice complementary to this meat course. A very simple dish, yet, very close to home. This dish definitely carries Thomas Keller's ideal. 


Intermezzo - Raspberry/Mint/Selzer

The mildly sweet sorbet provides a nice palate cleaning effect, and the nice carbonated soda helps enhance that effect.


5a) Chocolate Mousse/ Hazelnut Crunch/Chocolate Soil/Chocolate Gelato

This mildly rich chocolate mousse, combined with the nice hazelnut crunch is best described as a really good version of the Ferrero Rocher. The chocolate mousse carries a nice chocolate flavor, yet, not too sweet while the hazelnut crunch provides the crispy part for the dessert. The paired chocolate gelato brings in the additional contrast to the dish, which I like, since it allows me to have a nice contrast of different kinds of chocolate. This dessert is one of the strongest dessert I've had thus far.


5b) Carrot Cake / Goat Cheese Mousse / Huckleberry / Carrots/ Ginger

I usually am not a carrot cake and a goat cheese fan, but I have to give Chef Dorsey credit that he made something that I can endure and enjoy, even though I dislike those ingredients. The carrot cake is mildly sweet while the goat cheese provides a nice contracts to it. Nice play of texture here.

It's definitely is a very successful night. Several dishes definitely got my attention and the menu Chef Dorsey had prepared for me definitely exceeded my expectation. The simple ingredient paired with elegant execution was not something that I have prepared for. It's a nice surprise and I am looking forward to try more of his creation in the future.